A Beginner’s Guide to DIY Sashiko
At Stitch & Salvage, I believe in honouring the past while stitching toward a more sustainable future. One of the most beautiful ways to extend the life of well-loved denim is through sashiko, a traditional Japanese mending technique that blends function with artistry. Whether you're repairing a tear, reinforcing weak fabric, or simply adding a touch of handcrafted beauty, sashiko stitches tell a story of care and craftsmanship. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through the basics of sashiko mending so you can give your denim a second life.
What You’ll Need:
- A piece of worn or torn denim
- A scrap of fabric for reinforcement (preferably cotton or more denim)
- Sashiko thread (or embroidery thread)
- Sashiko needle (or a long embroidery needle)
- Fabric scissors
- Pins or fabric clips
- Fabric chalk or a washable fabric marker
- A thimble (optional but highly recommended for pushing through thick denim!)
- Good lighting (this makes a huge difference!)
Beginner’s Note: If you don’t have sashiko thread, you can use embroidery floss (all 6 strands together) or even perle cotton. The key is using something thicker than regular sewing thread so your stitches show up beautifully.
Step 1: Prepare Your Denim
Before stitching, prepare your denim by trimming any loose threads around the damaged area. Look closely at the worn spot. If there’s a hole or the fabric is very thin, you’ll need a patch for reinforcement.
How to Position Your Patch:
- Cut a patch from similar-weight fabric that extends at least 1 inch beyond the damaged area on all sides
- Place the patch on the WRONG side (inside) of your jeans
- Pin or clip it securely in place, making sure the fabric lies flat with no wrinkles
- You can also baste the patch in place with a few long running stitches to keep it stable while you work
Tip: For smaller reinforcements or purely decorative sashiko, you can skip the patch altogether and just stitch directly onto the denim.
Step 2: Mark Your Stitching Guide
Using fabric chalk or a washable marker, draw guidelines on the RIGHT side (outside) of your denim. This is what makes sashiko look so intentional and beautiful.
For Absolute Beginners, Start Here:
- Draw a grid or dots about 1/4 inch apart (use a ruler for consistency)
- Start with horizontal lines first, then add vertical lines to create a grid pattern
- Keep your marked area at least 1/2 inch larger than your patch so the stitches secure it properly
Beginner’s Tip: Don’t mark too much at once. Start with 3-4 lines so you can see how your stitching looks before committing to a whole design.
Step 3: Begin Stitching
This is where the magic happens! Sashiko uses a simple running stitch, but there’s a rhythm and technique that makes it distinctively beautiful.
Threading Your Needle
- Cut a piece of sashiko thread about 18-20 inches long (arm’s length from fingertip to shoulder). Any longer and it will tangle constantly.
- Thread your needle and make a small knot at one end
- If your thread keeps slipping out, you can double-thread the needle, but single thread gives more authentic sashiko results
The Running Stitch Technique
- Begin at one end of your marked grid
- Push the needle through from the BACK of the fabric (wrong side) so your knot will be hidden
- Bring the needle up at your first marked dot or line
The Rocking Motion (This is the key!):
Instead of making one stitch at a time, sashiko uses a “scooping” technique:
- Load your needle: Weave the needle in and out of the fabric 3-5 times before pulling the thread through
- Create the rhythm: Push the needle DOWN into the fabric, then back UP, down, up, down, up (like you’re scooping through the layers)
- Rock the fabric: Gently push the fabric toward you with your thumb as you load stitches onto the needle. This creates the characteristic slightly gathered look as you pull the thread through.
- Pull through: Once you have several stitches on your needle, pull the thread all the way through in one smooth motion
Stitch Length Guide:
- Aim for stitches that are about 1/4 inch long (about 4-6 stitches per inch)
- Keep the spaces BETWEEN stitches roughly the same length as the stitches themselves (equal on/off ratio)
- Don’t stress about perfect measurement. Slight variations add handmade character!
Maintaining Proper Tension:
This is crucial for beginners and where most people struggle:
- Too tight: Your denim will pucker and bunch up. If this happens, gently pull the fabric flat and loosen your thread slightly.
- Too loose: You’ll see slack thread loops on the surface
- Just right: The thread should lie flat against the fabric with no puckering, but you should still be able to see a slight curve or “smile” shape to each stitch when viewed from the side
Test your tension: After your first few stitches, flip the fabric over and look at the back. The stitches should look similar to the front. If the back is extremely puckered, you’re pulling too tight.
Navigating Your Stitching
Turning Corners:
- When you reach the end of a line and need to turn 90 degrees, take your last stitch right to the corner point
- Don’t cut your thread! Simply bring the needle up at the start of the next line
- You’ll have a small diagonal thread on the back connecting the two lines (this is normal and correct)
Running Out of Thread:
You’ll need to start a new thread partway through most projects:
- End your thread on the BACK of the fabric by weaving the thread through a few existing stitches on the back
- Trim excess thread close to the fabric
- Start your new thread the same way you began (knot, then up through the back), beginning right where you left off
- The joins will be invisible from the front
Step 4: Finishing Your Stitching
Once you’ve covered your patch area with stitches, it’s time to finish:
- End on the BACK of the fabric by weaving your thread through existing stitches on the back
- Trim excess thread close to the fabric (but not so close that it might come undone)
- Remove any visible marking lines (most fabric chalk or washable marker will come out with a damp cloth)
- If your denim has puckered slightly, press it with a steam iron on the back side. The heat and moisture will help relax the fibres.
Optional Final Step: Some people like to run the finished piece through a quick cold-water wash to soften the threads and integrate them with the denim. This also removes any remaining marks and gives it that “lived-in” look immediately.
Sashiko Variations to Try
Once you’ve mastered the basics, experiment with different stitch patterns to make each mend unique! Try:
- Asanoha (Hemp Leaf): A geometric star-like pattern
- Kakinohana (Persimmon Flower): Interwoven diamond shapes
- Wave Patterns: Inspired by traditional Japanese seigaiha waves
Why Sashiko?
Sashiko is more than just mending, it’s a statement. Each stitch slows down fast fashion, reduces textile waste, and transforms damaged garments into wearable art. At Stitch & Salvage, we embrace the philosophy of intentional craftsmanship, where every repair is a meaningful act of sustainability
The beauty of sashiko is that it makes damage visible, not invisible. We’re not hiding the repair or pretending the jeans were never worn. We’re celebrating their history and adding a new chapter to their story.
Your first attempt won’t be perfect, and that’s exactly as it should be. Sashiko celebrates the human hand at work. The slight irregularities in your stitches are what make your mend uniquely yours.
Ready to stitch your own story? Tag me on Instagram @stitchandsalvage to share your sashiko mending.